Smuggler's Path, White Nothe, Ringstead Bay - The 2nd Attempt
One of the least anticipated rematches has finally arrived, 5 years after the initial attempt - The Coffee Explorer vs The Smuggler's Path. The first bout was undoubtably a convincing win for the Smuggler's Path. If I had been a Dorset Smuggler in the 17th or 18th century, at best I would have been fired; at worst I would have been a feral Gollum living around the undercliff. To sum up the first attempt: I approached from Ringstead beach and got hopelessly lost in the overgrown Undercliff probably a good kilometer from the start of the Smuggler's Path. With the pressures of school pick-up looming, I had to abandon the attempt and head back the way I came. With 5 years of time healing my ego's wounds and my confidence rebuilding, it was time for the rematch.
The terms of the rematch had to be firmly in my favour, as in the interim 5 years I hadn't learnt any new navigational, foraging or survival skills. On the contrary, my moderately improved skill set - learnt for my children sake, in sewing and Lego - had limited benefit in this environment. I would love to pack a sewing kit and loved even more to have used it if the thorny undercliff ripped some clothes, but alas, not a firm requirement. So, in planning the rematch, I decided the easiest thing was to approach the path from the top. That way it's alot easier to find and descend and I should be able to scout the undercliff from above. In my haste to lock horns with the Smuggler's Path, I didn't have the chance to order more Kalita Wave filters, so had to make do with V60 papers. I picked our Las Mishas organic Peruvian coffee as my perfect travel companion and set off.
Views from the car park across Weymouth Bay
The easiest way to reach the top of White Nothe is to park at the National Trust car park and walk the couple of kilometers (estimate!). The car park has glorious views of Weymouth and Ringstead Bay and over to the Isle of Portland. After taking the obligatory picture of our Fountain Rock Coffee van, I parked sensibly and strode off with the Rocky theme tune ringing in my ears. A good thing about this walk is that there are some old coastguard cottages located at White Nothe so you can chart your progress towards the trailhead. After about 20-minutes I reached the cottages and headed right towards an old World War Two pillbox. I had a quick look inside - the views out were atmospheric but the whiff was unbearable, so I hastily retreated and refilled my lungs with Dorset sea air. Heading onwards, I found the top of the path marked with a stone sign looking ominously like a grave stone, bearing the succinct route summary "Steep Hazardous Route". The path starts quite warm and welcoming with a wide, relatively gentle gradient taking you eastwards with stunning views over to Bat's Head. It then switches back, and you can see a number of further switch backs snaking down the cliff face.
Views from the approach to White Nothe looking down towards Ringstead beach
I have never suffered from a fear of heights, but I descended slowly, looking predominantly at the ground. There is one section where the very narrow path has a drop on one side of over 100 feet down to an admittedly, beautiful shore - I didn't hang about for too long. I didn't meet any fellow smuggler's on the path, but I did have a couple of annoying ravens flying about, cawing constantly. I don't know if the Crows were merely mocking my attempt or if crows attack when you get to close to their nest, but despite having a good phone signal, I wasn't going to search on the internet for the answer while perched precariously - and somewhat invitingly - for a dive-bomb. Fortunately, after a few minutes they moved on, and I continued the descent until I reached a plateau looking out across the undercliff. I had thought that months of dry weather might have tamed it since my previous visit, but it still retained an air of impenetrability. I descended the last stretch of path and walked into the undercliff, but it remained as dense and overgrown as ever and having flashbacks to my previous 10 minutes lost in there, I turned back to face the Smuggler's path instead.
The steep, hazardous ascent
Going up rather than down the Smuggler's path was always the goal. Although it doesn't say anywhere that I can find, this direction would surely get priority. I imagine you'd be a seriously unpopular Smuggler if you descended and bumped into colleagues ascending whilst lugging a great deal of contraband up the path. For one thing, it was mostly done under cover of darkness, and for another, you'd be on high alert for the coastguards or police. You'd absolutely jump out of your skin bumping into anyone on a narrow, steep path while carrying heavy goods - which probably doesn't help your life expectancy. Maybe the Smuggler's Union enforced one-way travel. I don't know if they set a limit on how much you could smuggle in one go but I think my personal limit would have been five teabags. I'd have had to make an awful lot of runs.
About halfway up the path, I spotted a less trodden trail heading about twenty yards east, hinting at a potential new lookout point. I carefully followed it, and to be honest, the view was partially obscured by a lone tree and some bushes. I could just make out a tiny path that went eastwards and upwards on a gravity-defying trajectory. Must have been made by animals or for the smallest Smuggler's - or perhaps it was a terrifying escape route for when the main path was impassable. Either way, it looked horrifying. On my way back to the main path I noticed a very weather beaten tennis ball. It didn't look circa 17th or 18th century, so assumed it wasn't smuggler related. There was also no animal bones anywhere nearby, so I could rule out a sinister game of fetch gone wrong. Tucking the ball into my bag I took it away to dispose of later.
Continuing up that zig zagging path and treated with amazing views at each switch back, I made steady progress to the top of White Nothe. At the top of White Nothe, there was a stone bench on the eastern side which was a great spot to make and enjoy my coffee. I instantly regretted bringing my hand grinder. I could have ground it at home which would have been two hours prior and I am sure I wouldn't have noticed the difference in freshness. Anyhow, I pulled out the hand grinder out and started rigorously grinding my coffee beans and lo and behold, the first person I had met on the footpath appeared, offered a quick "good morning" and they eyed what I was doing with obvious confusion before deciding it was best not to engage further. I fully understood, it must have looked a little odd furiously grinding the coffee beans whilst hypnotised by the beautiful coastal views. The Las Mishas coffee was welcome and delightful, it's taste and flavour a perfect compliment to the beautiful coastline. Reflecting on the Smuggler's who must have used that path, I know they never enjoyed a break like that near the top of the smuggling route - they'd have had quite a way to go, to the nearest safe house to store the contraband.
I wouldn't say I won the rematch, as I didn't navigate the undercliff, but I think a score draw was a fair result.
A perfect coffee spot looking east along the Jurassic Coast
Spoiling the view westwards towards Weymouth and Portland!
